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ROW ON 5 X BENNETT WINCH

Culinary Craftsmanship

ROW ON 5 X BENNETT WINCH

Culinary Craftsmanship

At Jason Atherton’s and Spencer Metzger’s new restaurant, Row on 5, the devil is in the detail – and the drink mats, writes Richard Brown

It’s late September, two months before the scheduled opening of Row on 5, and Spencer Metzger, former Head Chef at The Ritz London and overall winner of the BBC’s Great British Menu 2022, is sitting in Bennett Winch’s Savile Row store talking drink coasters with Design Director, Rupert Shreeve. Such is the attention to detail being paid to every aspect of Metzger’s soon-to-open restaurant, that even drink coasters require their own meeting.

It was in August 2023 that Essex-born, Roux Scholarship-winning Metzger announced that he’d be leaving the famous Piccadilly hotel, where he’d worked since gaining an apprenticeship aged 16. A few months and many more rumours later, it was revealed that Metzger would be teaming up with the inexhaustible Jason Atherton – four new London restaurants this year, and counting – on a brand new dining concept. The pair had planned to unveil their joint project, appropriately named Row, on London’s home of menswear – a street the perennially well-turned-out Atherton has long advocated for.

Alas. Events outside of Metzger’s and Atherton’s control meant it wasn’t to be. Row, a “culinary voyage” divided into a series of “acts”, Metzger explains, debuted on the 45th floor of Dubai’s Grosvenor House Hotel. C’est la vie. If the response to the UAE outpost is anything to go by, the omens for London are good. Within 10 months of opening, the 22-cover restaurant was awarded two Michelin stars.

Spencer Metzger and Jason Atherton

Bennett Winch x Row on 5 leather cocktail menu cover, bill folder and drinks coaster

Denizens of Savile Row will remember the space now occupied by Row on 5 as the old showroom of Kilgour, although you’d struggle to recognise it from inside. Gone are the florescent strip lights and granite cutting tables; replaced with designer kitchens from Smallbone, wine cellars – seven of them – by Sorrells, and the sort of cheekbone-enhancing lighting that makes everyone look 10 years younger (you can thank Germany’s Occhio for that). Overall design is the work of London-based interior architects, Rosendale. To whom you have to tip your (bowler) hat.

“We wanted to create a truly world class restaurant,” says Metzger. “Somewhere with an international outlook, but which championed British ingredients and paid respect to its environment.” Ergo meetings about drink coasters. Metzger and Atherton were keen to collaborate with as many local manufacturers as possible. Front of house staff will be outfitted by Thom Sweeney; on their feet, shoes by Gaziano & Girling.

We wanted to create a truly world class restaurant – somewhere with an international outlook, but which championed British ingredients and paid respect to its environment.”

Spencer Metzger

As well as natty drink mats, Bennett Winch has created a cocktail book and receipt folder in the same full grain black leather from which it manufacturers its bags. Plus, a wine book, which is more a coffee-table tome, in storm grey suede. “We had to ensure the book was big enough to accommodate Row’s 8,000 wines,” says Shreeve. “Making it in suede means that, like a fine wine, the book will develop a unique character with age.”

As in Dubai, Row on 5 will be tasting-menu only. At each sitting, 12 chefs will prepare 15 courses for just 28 guests. The first four courses are served in a low-lit basement; the next eight courses within an elegant ground-floor dining room; then it’s back downstairs for a three-course finale. Choose your own wine, or let one of four sommeliers select for you.

Bennett Winch x Row on 5 'Storm Grey Suede' 125 page wine list cover

The newly completed Row on 5 interior and the suede covered Bennett Winch wine list and veg tan leather coasters

“The focus will be on British produce, with a Japanese influence,” says Metzger. “Our main aim is to give guests a taste of something they’ve not had before – the sort of experience everyone dreams about when they go to a restaurant. Great food and great wine, basically.”

And great coasters, too.

Row on 5 is now open, visit their website here to make a reservation.

Metzger at work in the kitchen (top), the Bennett Winch x Row on 5 leather bill folder (left) and the ground floor dining area (right)

Richard Brown is a freelance watch, style and luxury lifestyle journalist, Editor of Luxury London and a regular contributor to The Bennett Winch Journal: "The Good Adventure"